Fur fashion is making a comeback despite years of activism and legal restrictions. Once seen as outdated and controversial, fur is now regaining popularity, particularly in vintage and secondhand markets.
Celebrities, influencers, and designers are reviving the trend, and demand for pre-owned fur coats is rising. While fur production has declined, fashion houses and retailers are benefiting from renewed interest in classic styles.
The Shift in Fur Fashion
In 2020, PETA ended its long-standing “I’d Rather Go Naked Than Wear Fur” campaign. For decades, this campaign featured celebrities like Christy Turlington and Pamela Anderson advocating against fur in fashion.
Many luxury brands, including “Gucci” and “Prada,” pledged to stop using real fur, and California banned the sale of new fur products. However, despite these efforts, vintage fur has returned to mainstream fashion.
High-end furriers are reporting increased sales, especially among younger buyers. The 2024 Grammy Awards and the Super Bowl showcased celebrities in fur, bringing it back into public conversation. Ice Spice wore a Baby Phat denim set with fur accents, while DeAndre Hopkins sported his late father’s mink coat, making headlines.
The Rise of Vintage Fur
As new fur production declines, the secondhand market is booming. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, mink pelt production dropped by 28% between 2022 and 2023, while demand for vintage pieces surged. Online searches for “vintage fur coats” skyrocketed by 688% since early 2023, and social media platforms have fueled the trend.
The “mob wife aesthetic” trend, which gained traction in 2024, played a key role in this resurgence. This fashion movement, inspired by characters like Carmela Soprano from “The Sopranos” and Karen Hill from “Goodfellas,” embraces bold furs, animal prints, and glamorous styling. As a result, fur retailers are seeing younger customers for the first time in decades.
A New Generation of Fur Enthusiasts
Vintage fur is attracting a fresh audience, including Gen Z fashion lovers. Many buyers see vintage pieces as sustainable alternatives to new clothing. Rather than purchasing faux fur, which often contains plastic materials, they opt for classic furs that stand the test of time.
Retailers like Madison Avenue Furs have noticed an influx of younger customers. President Larry Cowit, who has been in the industry for over 30 years, says he has never seen so many college-aged buyers interested in fur. In Texas, homemaker Louisa Harwood wears her fur casually, pairing it with everyday outfits. “I wear it to Pilates, grocery runs, or while playing tennis with friends,” she says.
How Retailers Are Adapting
To meet growing demand, retailers are working with influencers and e-commerce platforms. The SIL, an online store managed by Natalie Bloomingdale, specializes in vintage fur sales. By collaborating with California furriers, Bloomingdale has sold over 1,200 fur pieces in just two years.
Luxury fur brands are also benefiting from the shift. Flier Furs, a century-old business, saw sales increase by 50% after partnering with Bloomingdale. Edwards-Lowell, another historic fur retailer, experienced a revival by selling vintage coats on Instagram.
The Controversy Around Fur’s Return
Despite its resurgence, fur remains a contentious topic. PETA continues to oppose fur in any form, arguing that wearing vintage fur still promotes the industry. Ashley Byrne, PETA’s director of outreach communications, believes ethical concerns should extend to all fur products, regardless of their age.
However, many fur buyers justify their choices by emphasizing sustainability. Unlike fast fashion, fur coats can last for decades, making them a long-term investment. Some consumers also argue that wearing vintage fur reduces waste and gives new life to pre-owned garments.
The Future of Fur Fashion
Fur’s comeback highlights a shift in consumer preferences. While modern fashion leans toward sustainability, it also embraces timeless luxury. Whether fur continues to dominate runways remains uncertain, but for now, it has found a place in contemporary style.
Retailers and designers are capitalizing on the renewed interest, and social media continues to shape fashion trends. With vintage fur in high demand, it is clear that this controversial material still holds value in the industry.